Khao Sok: One Night in the Trees, One Night on the Water
East Marvel Travel Guides

Khao Sok: One Night in the Trees, One Night on the Water

An East Marvel guide. Updated November 2026.

Give Khao Sok two nights, and make them different nights. One in the trees at the village. One on the water at Cheow Lan. A half day from the car park is the entrance road. The forest starts where that road ends.

The park was gazetted on 22 December 1980, Thailand's 22nd national park. The boundary today is about 739 square kilometres. The village and the lake are two gates, about an hour apart by road.

The night in the trees

The guesthouses sit in a ring around the park office, on the west side. People call it Khao Sok village. From the office a trail runs in for half a day, or a full one, to a waterfall and back. The walking is long. It is not a climb. Go slowly. Buttress roots, lianas, ferns, and one beam of light through the leaves.

Sleep in a treehouse if that is the room you booked: two floors, a stair, an open balcony. Cicadas in the day. Frogs after dark. When the rain starts, it stays on the roof until morning.

Rafflesia kerrii is Thailand's largest flower. In the Thai study of the plant, open flowers measured about 50 to 80 centimetres across. They were recorded from February into April and lasted five to seven days. Other records start in January. It grows on the roots of a vine and keeps no date inside those months. A licensed guide knows which vine is open this week. Go up the slope with that guide. A night walk belongs with a guide as well.

The night on the water

Cheow Lan is the name the boats use. The official name is Ratchaprapha Reservoir. Construction of the dam began in February 1982, and the dam was completed in September 1987. The water covers 185 square kilometres. About 160 limestone islets stand in it.

The longtail leaves from the pier on the far side of the park. After that the water is the road. Nothing paved reaches the far rafts. The hills come straight out of the lake, one after another. The boat moves. The water does not.

The raft houses are tied in clusters. At many of them the generator stops, and the insects take the night. In the morning the mist is slow. The lake takes the light before the hills do.

Kayak at first light. Paddle behind the next islet. A bird on a dead branch, waiting on the surface, is the reason for that hour.

When to go

Rain reaches this forest from the Andaman and from the Gulf, so the wet months run long. Over the park itself, for 1991–2020, February is the driest month, about 25 millimetres. August is the wettest, about 475. The year comes to about 2,940 millimetres. November is still about 210, so it sits inside the rains.

January through March is the clearer stretch, and February is the month to aim at if you want a dry trail and a chance at the flower. March and April afternoons average about 34°C. Nights through the year stay around 21–24°C, coolest in January and February.

You can come in the rains. The downpour arrives in the afternoon and it is in no hurry. A light raincoat is the right layer. Water also comes off the leaves above you. Some caves close. The trails go slick.

Getting there

Surat Thani airport is about two hours from the village gate. Bangkok to Surat Thani is about an hour and ten minutes in the air. From Krabi the drive north is about three hours. From Phuket it is about three hours to the northeast. From Khao Lak it is a little over an hour to the east. The pier is another hour on from the village. Book the raft house first. December through March goes first, and the rooms on the water are few. Book the flower guide in the same note.

On the table

Lunch is southern: gaeng som, fried fish, and khao yam. Mangosteen and rambutan come in with the early rains, in May and June.

How we book it

The 9-day Bangkok, Khao Sok, and Koh Phangan route gives the lake one night in a floating bungalow, with the kayak and the tubing, and then moves on. The village night is the one to add when the forest is the point, and the drive between the two gates has to sit in the day. Send the dates and which night you want first. We send a plan and a price. The email quote is the price.

East Marvel has designed private Asia journeys since 1988. The trip is planned at our U.S. headquarters and led on the ground by licensed English-speaking guides. Our guides and our proposals work in English. If someone traveling with you is more at ease in Chinese, say so when you write, and we will plan for that.

Write to contact@eastmarvel.com. The published routes are at eastmarvel.com/thailand/packages.html.

Park boundaries follow the Department of National Parks. The dam dates and the lake area follow EGAT. Rainfall and afternoon temperatures over the park are the 1991–2020 gridded averages, and a given week will differ. The flower follows that week's vine. This page is travel guidance for planning a private trip.

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